From Wynwood to Key Biscayne, via South Beach, follow in our footsteps in Florida’s largest city for a short stay under the palm trees.
Miami has changed. In good. The rows of coconut trees, the roaring sports cars and the sparkling yachts are still there, but there is a strong scent of novelty in this metropolis that is undergoing a turning point. arty unique in the world. Welcome to a city in flux, which we visit all year round, and where we never get bored.
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Miami Airport is located in the heart of the city. Once landed, and even if there is public transport, the most convenient and fastest mode of transport is still the taxi. (Count around $ 25, $ 35 for South Beach).
At the moment
Art collectors for 55 years, Mera and Donald Rubell opened a gallery in the heart of Wynwood in 1993. On December 4, the couple inaugurated a large museum a few blocks away, a new showcase to present their heritage and make more of the 7,200 works of their private collection. Jeff Koons, Cindy Sherman, Richard Prince and Keith Haring are among the hundred contemporary artists represented during the inaugural exhibition of the museum to be visited throughout this winter.
Open Wednesday to Sunday, between 10:30 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. 1100 NW 23 ST, Miami. Tel .: +1 305 573 6090. More info at www.rubellmuseum.org.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
North of Miami Beach, this brand new hotel is one of the hottest new addresses in the area. Opened in early February, it occupies an Art Deco building. The style of the building has been preserved, and the interior has been transformed into a bohemian-chic cocoon, ideal for packing your bags away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach. On the upper floors, 91 rooms and suites are decorated with soft colors and light woodwork. The Sérêvène restaurant offers Japanese cuisine fused with French influences. But the strong point of the hotel is especially its rooftop which includes a swimming pool and a bar from which the view plunges on the famous Collins Avenue. Starting at $ 240 per night.
Greystone Hotel, 1920 Collins Ave, Miami Beach. Tél.: +1 305 847 4000.
Time Out Market
In February 2019, Time Out opened a new Time Out Market in Miami on the model of the one in Lisbon inaugurated in 2014. The concept? A food court 17 restaurants, three bars and large tables arranged in the center of a hall which bring together the most prominent chefs of the moment. Dishes generally between $ 10 and $ 20.
Time Out Market, 1601 Drexel Avenue, Miami Beach. Tel .: +1 786 753 5388. Open every day of the week between 11 am and 11 pm. Closed at midnight on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays.
DAY 1: THE ART OF WYNWOOD IN BRICKELL
To start the day off right, go to the heart of Wynwood, at Zak the Baker, a bakery where rolled raisin and cinnamon donuts are particularly effective for building up strength before taking to the streets. Long called “El Barrio”, the old stronghold of the Puerto Rican community has changed a lot. After the introduction of the Second Saturday Art Walk and the arrival ofArt Basel (2002), artists from all over the world came to seek inspiration from the dilapidated facades of the area, and used them as canvases to present their work. Since 2009, huge frescoes have adorned disused buildings on dozens of blocks. Atomik, Sipros-sipros, Vihls, Kobra and a host of other renowned graffiti artists regularly decorate the walls of the largest street art district in the world. The experience is unique.
Leaving Wynwood from the north, we will stop at Morgans on 29th street. This restaurant with its polished “retro-Floridian” decor offers a nice selection of salads, sandwiches or dishes such as a lemon sea bass or pork chops with almonds. Not far from there, the Wynwood Diner rather serves high-quality brunches in a less airy setting, but on very comfortable club benches. This too is part of the American myth.
At the hottest hours of the day, take refuge in the’Institute of Contemporary Art, a few blocks north of Wynwood. This museum, opened in 1996, moved in 2017 to a building designed by Maria José Aranguren and José Gonzalez Gallegos. The Spanish-Mexican duo created this building on the model of a “magic box”. It houses a beautiful collection of contemporary art which mixes up-and-coming artists with big names like Louise Bourgeois or Damian Ortega, which is exhibited there until November.
Leaving the museum you are in Miami Design District. More than a luxurious shopping mall, it is above all a large playground where dozens of architects have given themselves to their hearts content. Thus, the Louboutin boutique is signed by the New York agency 212box and it is the Japanese duo Aoki & Uchibe who created the Louis Vuitton store. All these ultracontemporary buildings are spread around a magnificent courtyard planted with tall palm trees and centered on the Fly’s Eye Dome de Richard Buckminster Fuller.
Dinner and evening
At the end of the day, when the day falls and the city lights up, go down to Brickell. This district is the image of Épinal that we have of an American coastal city. Near the Miami River which divides the beating heart of the city in two, the great Italian food court Luna Park is spread over three floors. The first is a market where you can choose salads, cold cuts or prepared meals. The second brings together several restaurants specializing in meat, seafood or pizzas. Finally on the third and last floor, a large wine bar offers its guests more than 4,000 bottles.
You will only have two streets to cover to complete your evening at the Sugar. This bar is located on the 40th floor of the East Hotel, right in the center of Brickell. The lush vegetation of this rooftop immerses you in an almost tropical atmosphere. Cocktail in hand, you finally admire the city lights: you are on one of the most beautiful lookouts in Miami.
Day 2: a breath of fresh air from South Beach to Key Biscayne
After having scoured urban Miami, head for the coast for this second day: South Beach is unmissable. It is from here that we admire the sun rise. Before the temperature rises, take the time to walk along the boardwalk which runs along the beach for several kilometers. This coastal path winds between the tall white buildings facing the Atlantic and the wide and endless beach. You will easily distinguish the multicolored rescue huts planted on the sand. In town there is no shortage of colors either, South Beach is known to be the largest Art Deco district in the world. Behind Ocean Drive which acts as a sparkling showcase, dozens of white or colored buildings are scattered around this astonishing district where the atmosphere is always relaxed.
South Beach is Miami’s most touristic area. Be careful not to fall into the trap of most of the addresses lined up on Ocean Drive or Española Way. Instead, push the door of the Taqueria Winery serving some of the best quality tacos in town. Do not hesitate to open the bathroom door at the back of the restaurant, you will come across … a hidden bar! Otherwise, outside of South Beach, Belle Isle is home to The Standard hotel whose restaurant Lido Bayside Grill is installed on a wooden deck offering a beautiful view of Biscayne Bay.
To take a step back, go to Key Biscayne. This island is connected to the city by a bridge that crosses the bay. The Miami ATP tennis tournament had been held here since 1987 before it was moved last year to a soulless venue. However, Key Biscayne still has a relaxed atmosphere that allows you to breathe. People come here for a breath of fresh air just a few minutes from South Beach. The tip of the island is classified as a State Park and lined with a still preserved forest. The beaches are far from being invaded and on weekends, the surroundings of the lighthouse nicknamed “el farito” are a rallying point for Cubans of Miami who meet here with their family with music. Latin atmosphere guaranteed.
End of the day
Just before Key Biscayne, Virginia Key is another island, smaller, where you often just pass by. Before heading back to town, stop at the Rusty Pelican. Sitting on the terrace of this waterfront restaurant, you’ll have a front-row seat to watch the sun set behind the Miami skyline. The signature cocktails, the fish dishes and the unique view are more than worth a stop to end your day facing the sunset.
Good restaurants, gourmet addresses
Zak The Baker, 295 NW 26th Street, Wynwood. Tél.: +1 786 294 0876.
Morgans, 28 NE 29th Street, Wynwood. Tél.: +1 305 573 9678.
Wynwood Diner, 2601 NW 2nd Avenue, Wynwood. Tel .: +1 305 747 7888.
Luna Park, 601 South Miami Avenue, Brickell.
Sugar, 788 Brickell Plaza # 40, Brickell. Winter: +1 786 805 4655.
Bodega Taqueria, 1220 16th street, South-Beach. Tél.: +1 305 704 2145.
The Standard, 40 Island Ave, Belle Isle Island. Tél.: +1 305 673 1717.
Rusty Pelican, 3201 Rickenbacker Causeway, Virginia Key. Tél.: +1 305 361 3818.
This hotel, a little out of the way north of the city, appealed to us for its purely American style. It consists of a large U-shaped building that surrounds a beautiful lush garden and a large swimming pool. The decor of the rooms is colorful, quite pop and above all vintage. We enjoyed spending the night in this calm, friendly and original address, a few kilometers from Wynwood and the Miami Design District. From 140 € per night. Vagabond Hotel, 7301 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami. Phone: +1 305 400 8420.
It is one of the very beautiful addresses in Miami located on Collins Avenue, in the heart of South Beach. Its central patio, like an oasis, is impressive. Its three pools each have a different temperature. The 135 rooms and suites are located in the historic building from 1936 and in a magnificent contemporary tower. Among them, 48 Ocean Suites offer spectacular views of the beach below and the Atlantic stretching as far as the eye can see. From 530 €.
The Setai, 2001 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach. Tél.: +1 305 520 6000.